Triton Setup Disclaimer!! All boats are
not loaded or driven equally.
What works for one may not work for another, even empty with the same
size engine, prop and driver! These figures are starting points
and some are proven finishing points for setups. It is just as
important to be sure the throttle is adjusted properly as it is to have
the right prop. Sloppy rigging plays an important role in
unsatisfactory performance and dissatisfied customers.
Chinewalk: Triton is a boat that responds
favorably to higher engine settings.
Many dealers install the engine in the first hole that lines up and in
many cases the owner is not aware of adjustments that can be made.
Once it has been determined that the engine is in a relatively accurate
height range, you can begin getting a feel for the boat. The
leading cause of intitial uncontrollable chine is over trimming the
engine. It is very important to master each setting of engine trim
before trimming further. Your Triton hull is very efficient and
does not require an extremely high angle of attack to achieve its
Beware of the pre-2000 Merc 3.0 Liter water pressure during
setup! The added water ports on the lower unit keep from lifting the Opti 3.0 to a maximum height.
Although the 200 EFI and Opti are both the same HP, they are totally
different engine/lower unit combos and height info is not readily
exchanged between them. The 2000+ 3.0 models have the low
water intakes in the front of the housing
that help control intake venting.
Torquemaster style "scoops" will cure all low water volume
woes without resorting to a lift and speed-robbing nosecone.
Because of the limited time the 250's have been out I have minimal setup
knowledge of them. Remember that the 200 Optimax, 225 EFI and
Optimax, the 250XB and the 300 ProMax are all based on the 3.0
Merc. This is mind, set up the 250XB as you would the 225 EFI but
you may need to add pitch. Since the redline is higher on the XB
the same setup should work as the 225 EFI.
smaller Tritons- 170 Premier, TR-17, 180 Premier and the TR-18 can be
difficult to dial in. Tournament load is much more crucial in the
smaller hull/motor combinations. The Laser II props work well on
the Merc and Yamaha powered 17's. The 18' Premier and TR-18 do
better with the larger diameter Renegade, Raker, Tempest and Trophy
are concerned, I like the 8" plate for all around use on the 19, 20
and 21'. I think the 6" plate is the right stuff on the 186
and all other rigs where a great load is usually carried.....like a
heavy TR22. The 10" plates should be reserved for high HP,
light load rigs that desire the most topend speed.