Triton Setup Disclaimer!!  All boats are not loaded or driven equally.
What works for one may not work for another, even empty with the same size engine, prop and driver!  These figures are starting points and some are proven finishing points for setups.  It is just as important to be sure the throttle is adjusted properly as it is to have the right prop.  Sloppy rigging plays an important role in unsatisfactory performance and dissatisfied customers.

Chinewalk: Triton is a boat that responds favorably to higher engine settings.
Many dealers install the engine in the first hole that lines up and in many cases the owner is not aware of adjustments that can be made.  Once it has been determined that the engine is in a relatively accurate height range, you can begin getting a feel for the boat.  The leading cause of intitial uncontrollable chine is over trimming the engine.  It is very important to master each setting of engine trim before trimming further.  Your Triton hull is very efficient and does not require an extremely high angle of attack to achieve its maximum potential.

Beware of the pre-2000 Merc 3.0 Liter water pressure during setup!  The added water ports on the lower unit keep from lifting the Opti 3.0 to a maximum height.  Although the 200 EFI and Opti are both the same HP, they are totally different engine/lower unit combos and height info is not readily exchanged between them.   The 2000+ 3.0 models have the low water intakes in the front of the housing that help control intake venting. 
Torquemaster style "scoops" will cure all low water volume woes without resorting to a lift and speed-robbing nosecone.
Because of the limited time the 250's have been out I have minimal setup knowledge of them.  Remember that the 200 Optimax, 225 EFI and Optimax, the 250XB and the 300 ProMax are all based on the 3.0 Merc.  This is mind, set up the 250XB as you would the 225 EFI but you may need to add pitch.  Since the redline is higher on the XB the same setup should work as the 225 EFI.

The smaller Tritons- 170 Premier, TR-17, 180 Premier and the TR-18 can be difficult to dial in.  Tournament load is much more crucial in the smaller hull/motor combinations.  The Laser II props work well on the Merc and Yamaha powered 17's.  The 18' Premier and TR-18 do better with the larger diameter Renegade, Raker, Tempest and Trophy setups.

Where jackplates are concerned, I like the 8" plate for all around use on the 19, 20 and 21'.  I think the 6" plate is the right stuff on the 186 and all other rigs where a great load is usually carried.....like a heavy TR22.  The 10" plates should be reserved for high HP, light load rigs that desire the most topend speed.